Palazzo Fortuny
The Palazzo Fortuny Museum is as idiosyncratic a space as you will ever find. It's one of those 'pinch yourself' experiences and it seems to connect to Venice in a strong way: design, collecting, the private Palazzo, a whiff of the illusive, and a peep into the ivory tower of bygone days. Judy Millar's Berlin - based gallerist Hamish Morison recommended the Palazzo Fortuny to me. He didn't tell me much about it—just that he visits it nearly every time he comes to Venice. The six-month exhibition In-Finitum, currently showing there for the Biennale, is part of a trilogy of exhibitions by curators Axel Vervoodt and Daniela Ferreti. The back cover of the list of works states that 'the mysterious and mythical spaces' of the Palazzo Fortuny represent a 'natural habitat for the exhibition. Its structure and atmosphere—still so strongly influenced by Fortuny's investigative, creative and genial spirit—perfectly suit the unknown and unknowable that runs through In-finitum. Indeed the 'unknown' is very present in the Palazzo Fortuny. There are several dark annexes (in one we found an extremely exciting James Turrell light installation) and many dim corners where there could well be artworks that are never seen and other hidden objects. While I was there, I wasn't so aware of the theme of the exhibition itself; it's the discovery of this art/object 'habitat' that is so compelling. Exterior of the Palazzo. The Moorish influence is strong. You make your way across creaking floors and up a series of staircases: the curious collection of objects, theatre tools, tapestries, paintings, lights, furniture and tiny photographs spans four (and possibly five) floors. There are unfinished sculptures and strange studies of human muscle, set in rough stone, which are laid out like medical specimens on solid library tables. One cabinet combines two Escher lithographs with two spherical ivory 'polyhedrons' from Germany by an anonymous craftsman. It is these purely aesthetic combinations that make the Museum so intriguing. It is personal too. In the same cabinet there is a bust of Fortuny's grandfather. I continue to drift through, passing from a design for a theatre backdrop contained in a box, to a Bronze Bastet cat from Egypt's XXVIth dynasty and on to an Alexander Calder painting—mobile which plays a shadow on one of Fortuny's hung textiles. John Gerard, Sentry (Kit Carson, Colorado), 2008 There are also some cracking works of recent years. I really enjoyed this video work by John Gerrard, fastidiously presented on a clean white bench. He creates works in real-time 3D, a type of graphics used in gaming. An oil derrick machine continuously pumps oil in an empty landscape somewhere in the mid west. The encircling 360-degree camera pans give it a slightly menacing air—as if the machine is under surveillance. There are layers of fabrics in front of which paintings seem be suspended in mid-air, and a number of long sofas generously adorned with decorative cushions. We made good use of these. Fortuny's famous lamps create a very soft light. It is very dark and murky in areas, but the third floor is where you come up for air. It has cream walls and much more natural light, and the works on this floor seem to be united by minimalism and light colours. The journey through the museum has lots of contrasts. For me it is like finding your way into the backdoor of a surrealist painting—or at least entering the studio of Dali or Magritte. It is also like a Joseph Cornell assemblage—on a large scale. On the second floor you can gaze into Mariano Fortuny's library through a window. It's filled with textiles, samples and tools. Marzia, an Italian I work with at the Fondazione Buziol, tells me she went to an exhibition at Palazzo Fortuny some years back as a high school student, an exhibition on 'arte deco'. I start to realise the museum is a wonderful permanent Venetian set where many exhibitions and themes can be staged. A section of the list of works (which is a rough architectural plan and the only guide on offer) makes me smile: 13. Antoni Tapies (1923), Texture negra amb taques blanques, 1959
14. Scholar's Rock, China, 20th Century
15. Adam Fuss, For Allegra, 2009
16. Dragon, from the collection of Mariano Fortuny. Wood. (Unfortunately I seemed to have missed this object)
17. Bill Viola, Bodies of Light, 2006
Where else would that line-up materialise?
A little about Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo (1871-1949), Spanish fashion designer and inventor
Fortuny was born to an artistic family in Spain. His father, a genre painter, died when Fortuny was three years old and his mother moved the family first to Paris, and then in 1889 to Venice. It was in Paris, the story goes, that Fortuny copied a Velasquez at the age of 9 and was sent to study with a famous painter. Apparently the young Fortuny also frequented the studio of Rodin.
In Venice, the family's house on the Grand Canal became a busy meeting place for artists and writers. Not only did Fortuny paint and etch and practice all of the traditional methods for studying art, he also practiced music, photography, architecture and set design. He had a close relationship with the composer Richard Wagner, and received his first theatre commission in 1889, designing the set and costumes for 'The Mikado'.
He opened his couture house in 1906 and continued until 1946. Today he is famous for a number of things, including the finely pleated Delphos gown, a gown based on the ancient Grecian style; new methods of textile dying and printing on fabrics; the Fortuny cyclorama dome, a stage lighting innovation that could be used to create lighting effects such as a bright sky or a faint dusk; and the Fortuny diffuser lamp, for domestic lighting. We found these in one of the Fortuny shops in Venice and took some photos (double click on the photos for a larger view).
Leafing through my guide (I'm now home in Wellington), I realise I have missed the 'attic' floor. I recall walking though four floors, but must have not found a way up to this final space, where according to the floor plan, there is pottery from Thailand and Japan, amongst twenty other paintings.
A window on the third floor. Views are rare in Venice.